Critics

Morgan Curtis

Morgan Curtis
Intimate Apparel

Born in New York City, Morgan Curtis is the third generation in a family of fashion. Inspired in large part by her mother, renowned designer Jill Stuart, Curtis earned a degree in fashion design from Cornell University and attended Central Saint Martins, in London. She began designing for the Jill Stuart brand, where she has collaborated since 2009. Through that experience and her recent series of doll paintings, Curtis realized her desire to combine her two passions: illustration and lingerie. She wanted to tell a story using both mediums, and launched Morgan Lane with lingerie and sleepwear for Resort 2014.

For Curtis, lingerie is the most essential piece of fashion and the closest to her heart. The brand is represented by an image from her personal illustrations—a doll named Lanie. Lanie is a muse of sorts, who defines the playfulness, enchantment, seduction, and mischief of the Morgan Lane girl.

Lanie identifies the brand, with packaging, embroideries, and even a custom lace using the signature Lanie image. Curtis’s attention to detail, modern fabrics and hardware, and love for classic elegance have allowed her to deliver a one-of- a-kind collection. She was a CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund 2016 finalist and was included in the Forbes 30 Under 30 Class of 2017.

Peter Do

Peter Do
Sportswear

Peter Do is a Vietnamese-American designer. Since graduating from FIT in 2014, and winning the Critic Award for sportswear, he moved to London/Paris to work as a designer at Celine under the creative director Phoebe Philo. He was the winner of the CFDA Scholarship and LVMH Graduate Prize. In September 2016, his ‘Extraordinary Process’ Exhibition with Gallery Maison Mais Non, in London, opened with a mini collection of unisex coats, sweaters, and boots designed in conversation with the architect Dame Zaha Hadid. He is currently designing at Derek Lam.

Chris Gelinas

Chris Gelinas
Sportswear

Chris Gelinas is a New York based women’s wear designer. He challenges conventional approaches to design through a commitment to rigorous technical development and innovation, bridging the gap between pioneering techniques and classic luxury and femininity. Gelinas quickly won recognition, becoming a finalist in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund (2015), a U.S. finalist for the International Woolmark Prize (2015), and shortlisted as a finalist in the first LVMH Young Fashion Designers prize (2014), and his debut CG collection won the MADE for Peroni Young Designer Award (2013).

Gelinas graduated from Parsons School of Design. He refined his technical skills at some of the industry’s most acclaimed fashion houses, including Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, and Balenciaga, and as first assistant to Olivier Theyskens at Theyskens’ Theory.

Born in Canada, Gelinas spent much of his childhood abroad, where he learned to appreciate the aesthetic richness of diverse cultures and environments. His fascination for clothing and construction matured through observation of his grandmother, a seamstress, and his grandfather, a woodworker and upholsterer.

Gelinas is dedicated to a movement that supports local industry, creating and producing much of his collection in New York with the highest level of skill and craftsmanship.

Flora Gill

Flora Gill
Knitwear

Flora Gill has been designing apparel with a specialty in knitwear for 15 years. After graduating from Parsons School of Design, she worked for several designers, including Karl Lagerfeld. In 2006, she and Alexa Adams founded Ohne Titel, where a key focus was the use of new technology and knit techniques to create personalized fabrics and unique volumes and surfaces in the designs. In 2009, Ohne Titel received the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award for women’s wear. The brand was a finalist in the 2009 and 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards and was nominated for the 2009 Swiss Textiles Award. Gill has been a member of the CFDA since 2011. Ohne Titel was closed in 2016 to enable Gill and Adams to explore melding tech and fashion in interesting collaborations and consulting projects.


Sander Lak

Sander Lak
Sportswear

Sander Lak is the creative director of Sies Marjan. The label takes its name from his father and mother’s given names, respectively.

Lak was born in Brunei and raised in Holland. He was educated at ArtEZ in Arnhem, the Netherlands, and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, graduating with a master’s degree in 2008. His design experience includes time spent in the ateliers of prestigious design houses in New York, Antwerp, and Paris.

Lak lives and works in New York City. He presented the debut women’s wear collection for Sies Marjan during New York Fashion Week, fall-winter 2016.

Victoria Lambourne

Victoria Lambourne
Knitwear

Victoria Lambourne is director of knits and sweaters and Elizabeth and James. She has held positions at Acorn textile studio, American Eagle Outfitters, Calvin Klein, and Theory. Her training allows her to creatively combine innovative and traditional techniques of stitch manipulation and garment construction. Lambourne graduated from Nottingham Trent University in England with a degree in fashion knitwear design and knitted textiles.

Erin Rechner

Erin Rechner
Children’s Wear

Ever since Erin Rechner learned to draw and sew, she knew she was meant to lead a creative life. Rechner is currently the senior kidswear editor at WGSN, where she balances forward-thinking insight alongside actionable reports within the WGSN kidswear directory. Previously, the Ohio native moved to New York, taking on the role of junior’s and children’s designer for brands including Aéropostale, Target, Kohl’s and Dickies, giving her a strong commercial eye within the fashion industry.

Rechner’s move into the senior editor role at WGSN was a defining moment in her career. She has brought unparalleled expertise to the kidswear directory, and made strategic changes that have resulted in the highest year-on-year growth measured against all other content departments. She is passionate about giving her clients what they need, enabling her to use her past design experience along with her present expertise in predicting fashion’s future.

Karen Sabag

Karen Sabag
Special Occasion

Born in Israel, Karen Sabag received her initial training from her mother Lidya, a respected designer. At age 11, she immigrated to the United States, where she graduated from FIT in 2007, took first prize from among more than 800 entrants in the Kleinfeld Bridal design competition in 2007, and then worked with her mother in her Brooklyn boutique, doing Fashion Week and selling bridal at Kleinfeld. In 2013, she opened her second location at the Miracle Mile in Manhasset.

Sabag is drawn to the opulence of European culture, primarily of its architecture and the highly decorated and dreamlike interiors found in cities like Paris, Florence, Rome, and Versailles. She pays attention to detail and focuses on the magnificence of the ceilings and walls. Most of her three-dimensional designs lead to her material concepts and layering incorporated into her pieces. The combination of lace and beading creates a translucent effect and an ethereal and airy feel. Incorporating fine fabrics and laces from Europe, her collection expresses true glamour and understated sexiness.

Sophie Theallet
Sportswear

Sophie Theallet creates clothes that stand alone in today’s fashion. She follows her own path, as each new collection is an evolution of the last, built around her singular vision and mastery of craft. Her signature is femininity and ease, sensuality and craftsmanship. Like Sophie herself, the collections have a undeniably French accent–luxury clothing whose universal appeal lies in its unique point of view.

She attended the renowned fashion design school Studio Berçot in Paris, and won France’s National Young Design Award. She was hired by the most influential designer of the time, Jean-Paul Gaultier, who taught her how to work with color, develop the narrative of a collection, and, most important, to be fearless and trust her own instincts.

She then moved on to Azzedine Alaïa, where she matured as a designer. During her 10 years as Alaïa’s right-hand woman, Theallet immersed herself in the world of couture, refining her cutting and draping skills. After moving to New York City, she continued to work part time with Alaïa while also freelancing for other labels. In 2007, she launched her own label, Sophie Theallet, which swiftly garnered acclaim from the media and prestigious retailers. In 2009, she was recognized by the American fashion industry, winning the coveted CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award.

From a simple T-shirt to an elaborate evening gown, Sophie Theallet’s clothes invite the woman’s personality to come through. It is this philosophy of subtle sexiness, beauty, substance, and style that continues to draw a growing clientele worldwide.

Isabella Tonchi

Isabella Tonchi
Sportswear

Isabella Tonchi is an Italian designer born in Florence, living and working partly in Milano and partly in New York City and traveling often to Tokyo for business. She has an impressive track record, having been spotted by Elio Fiorucci in the ’80s for her street style at age 18, and then designing Prada’s Miu Miu in the ’90s. She was poached by Calvin Klein for his CK line and then designed Gianni Versace and Versace’s Versus line. She went out on her own on 2004, creating a women’s line, simple yet refined, that mixes provocation with innocence.

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